11.06.2019

BUILDING FOR YOU


16.05.2019

Ropes

Common mistakes

  1. Lack of attention (may result in fatal accidents)
  2. The belayers does not know what is the correct rope position (prepared to react with one hand above the belay device and the other below it with rope held down lana) (partially incorrect belaying)

  3. „Book grasp“ (both palms facing up) instead of a "showel grip" (with a tuber, it is a deadly combination, since no breaking power is generated and the rope slides through the belay device!)

  4. Both hands above the belay device (with a tuber and figure of eight, it is a deadly combination, since no breaking power is generated and the rope slides through the belay device!)

  5. When paying out rope, the lower hand stays too close to the belay device (dangerous, since the skin may be pulled into the belay device and the breaking power of a tuber may be lost, not to speak about the belayers reaction to the resulting pain)

  6. When taking in the rope, the belayer holds both ropes jointly infront of him/her (with a figure of eight, Gri-Gri and especially a tuber, it is a fatal combination, since no breaking power is generated and the rope slides through the belay device!)

  7. Very loose rope (intensity of the generated power mostly prevents the holding of a possible fall. Many people clearly are not able to envisage that with a very loose rope, the climber hits the ground. The lower rope arch should not be below the belay device itself!)

  8. The belayer is too far from the wall (in case of a fall, the belayer often looses control and is pulled to the fall, loosing control of the rope; this situation calls for serious injuries)

  9. At the beginning of the route, belaying is negigious or non-existent (should a hold turn unexpectedly, or the climber slip or somebody else make him fall, the resulting injuries are mostly unpleasant)

  10. The weight difference is ignored fully (if a heavy-weight climber is belayed by a light-weight one, not only the belayer is pulled up, but the light-weight climber is often unable to generate sufficient breaking power necessary to hold the fall of the heavier climber! The later reason explains, why it is not enough to just clip children or women into a bolt!)

  11. Incorrect gear: There is a belay device for each rope type (combination of incorrect gear leads repeatedly to unpleasant surprises. Do not use thin and slippery ropes! Using them, most climbers are not able to hold a fall in the gym, since the direct rope line does not generate any rope drag!)

  12. Missing partner check: Many climbers forget to ask their partner, if they can belay at all. (it is not necessary to describe the consequences!) Prior to climbing, check the knot, belay device, harness and with Gri-Gri also its blocking!